Milan designers are reflecting on a troubled world with collections that mark a return to serious business attire, even from active wear brands, and away from frivolity.
Some scenes from the third day of previews Sunday of mostly menswear collections for fall-winter 2024-25:
SIMON CRACKER NODS OFF
Italian brand Simon Cracker explores the moment before drifting off to sleep, as the best respite from a troubling world.
The nearly 14-year-old brand by designers Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi works entirely with upcycled garments and reclaimed remnants. For this collection, the designers achieved harmony by dyeing the garments together, creating a dreamy pinkish blue of a sunset.
Colors bleed together, and become a bit blurry, as if seeing through closed eyes. The silhouette is slouchy, as if giving up after a long day. Men’s tailoring defines the collection, but jackets are deconstructed with one shoulder off, a new half-collar taking its place.
Garments are dusted with a...