Restaurant review: Chez Luma 

Rue de la Fauvette 17, 1180 Uccle

What’s good: Brace yourselves, readers!

Chez Luma is nestled in a verdant back alley in deepest Uccle, but the spot is worth the trip. Chef Luka Greiner serves French bistro fare updated for the modern palate. The dishes are fresh, with some unusual ingredient combinations, but the taste is easy and comforting. 

For starters, honeyed, caramelized asparagus slices married thinly sliced foie gras to make a tender and buttery duo. The effiloché de boeuf was more hearty; a coating of rucola gave some tart freshness to the meaty, creamy, dish that was a bit like a lasagna without the pasta. 

Then things got really interesting. I had the horse steak, served sliced and in a buttery caper sauce and with roast potatoes and shallots. The meat was good but was basically indistinguishable from beef. The sauce was more interesting, laden with umami flavor. A super pavlova served with finely crumbled meringue and a red fruit coulis topped it all off. 

What’s not? It won’t come as a surprise, but vegetarian options are limited, though not entirely absent. 

Vibe: Hats off to the owners who have managed to create something that feels like a cozy neighborhood restaurant, but that looks a lot better. Everything from the green-tiled bar counter, to the walls painted in shimmering pastel aquamarines, and the chalkboard menu casually propped up on a chair in front of diners, speaks to taste and a good eye.  

Insider tip: If you’re feeling gluttonous, the pork loin (échine de cochon) is a decadent treat. 

Who’s picking up the check? Prices are around the norm for Brussels. A starter, main, dessert and wine came in at €45. 

Fun fact:  The chef is an official member of the “Association to Safeguard the Mayo Egg.” Try one if you go.  

How to get there: If you don’t live in Uccle, it’s a hike. The restaurant is between Calevoet station and the Héros tram and bus stop.

Review published on  June 6, 2024. Illustration by Dato Parulava/POLITICO