Chaussée de Waterloo 179, 1060 Saint-Gilles 

What’s good? We wanted to hate Grabuge’s uber-pretentious Asian-Mediterranean fusion cuisine, but just couldn’t. Every small plate landed flawlessly, leaving behind a self-satisfied trail of awe. From the “Oyster Shots” garnished with minuscule limes sprinkled with chili powder, to the “Winter Ceviche” bathed in a stodgy broth, to the “Garlic S[hr]imp” on parsnip purée, to the “Yellow Noodles” winking at classic pasta recipes — each dish more than managed to justify its existence. 

The wine selection is vast, if difficult to navigate without a server’s stewardship, and the cocktails are a joy.

What’s not? Like an effortlessly brilliant straight-A schoolkid who can’t be bothered to tie their shoes, Grabuge is as careless at service as it is excellent in the kitchen. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations for parties fewer than five, which means you’ll see several walk-in wannabe diners awaiting a table. But due to the lack of a proper waitlist mechanism, each harried server will have a different idea of the line’s order. Let’s just say it can happen that you’ll be seated by one server only to be shooed away by another seconds later. 

Vibe: Proudly pretentious, it blends designer tables and buffed-iron light fixtures with studiously homespun touches such as floral pattern ceramic plates and shelves sagging cartoonishly under legions of wine and saké bottles.

Who’s picking up the check? The suggestion is to order two to three plates per person and share. Ordering five dishes plus a dessert and drinks came to €98. 

Spotted: A jolly fellow wearing a baseball cap featuring the word Ixelles rendered as the logo of The X Files — the classic 1990s thriller/sci-fi series.

Insider tip: Grabuge’s menu is revamped often. We tried menu no.13, but it is totally possible that those tasty noodles won’t be there when you finally decide to go. 

Fun fact: The €4 bread is called “Fausse Caccia,” a pun on Italian focaccia. When we remarked on the hilarious wordplay, the server had no idea what we were on about.

How to get there: From the bubble, you can get there in less than 30 minutes via metro and tram — or cycle. Grabuge is only open for dinner, from 6 p.m. onward, and closed on Tuesday.

— Review published on February 15, 2024. Illustration by Dato Paruvala for POLITICO.