Chaussée d’Alsemberg 128, 1060 Brussels

What’s good? Dishes at Tokidoki are presented “family-style” — meaning your tiny table for two will be filled with small (but mighty) dishes to share. The fixed menu comes with a choice of three mains — recently a mushroom and leek filo-pastry pie; beef short rib with onion, parsley and sumac salad; or beer-braised chicken with radicchio — as well as tasty sides like smoked potato puree or white beans with chili oil, and plates of bright, tangy vegetables. Don’t try to resist the dessert: I was very glad my dinner partner’s semifreddo with salted caramel came with an extra spoon (him less so). 

What’s not? The menu changes every week, allowing the chefs to experiment — and some weeks are inevitably more memorable, or hit the spot more satisfyingly, than others. But that’s part of the charm.

Vibe: The space is small and cozy, with no more than 10 tables and most of them set for two. The open kitchen, bright decor and friendly staff create the ambiance of a lively living room. 

Who’s picking up the check? You’ll face an agonizing choice between two menus: a €32 menu that includes a main dish, a side and two veggie plates; or a €40 option that also includes an “extra” and a dessert (the additional plate of squid with citrus and coriander was worth the splurge). The drinks menu is reasonably priced, with beers from local brewery Brasserie Illegaal, a selection of natural wines and sake by the glass or bottle. 

Spotted: A casual mix of locals, couples on dates and friends catching up. An ideal spot for an unfussy, relaxed dinner experience. 

Insider tip: If the restaurant is full, you can ask the kitchen to serve you at Dynamo, the bar next door. 

How to get there: The tram stop Albert is a three-minute walk away. To get there from the EU quarter, take the metro to Porte de Hal, then change onto the 3 or 4 tram in the direction of Churchill. From Ixelles, take the 97 tram from Place Stephanie to Lombardie — it’s a five-minute walk from there.

— Review published on February 8, 2024. Illustration by Dato Paruvala for POLITICO.